How To Install Rear Differential

jp213a

Procedure for changing the rear differential fluid in a 100:

Draining:

Bulldoze the vehicle to warm-up the gear oil. Park on a level surface. It's not necessary to raise the vehicle. Remove the make full plug first. Information technology's located on the back of the differential housing. It has a 24mm head (verify before starting piece of work) but it is slightly undersized so a xv/sixteen" socket fits amend. Use a six point socket if bachelor because the low profile plug caput offers picayune expanse for the socket to grip and the head is soft. Be sure the socket stays squarely on the plug caput as pressure is applied to the dissonance handle, peculiarly if a cheater pipe is used. With the low profile head, the socket wants to roll off and round the corners in the process. Remove the fill plug before the bleed plug so in case the fill plug is frozen or rounded-off and won't come out you're non faced with no gear oil in the housing and no mode to refill. If the plug is frozen, spray it with Pb Blaster make penetrating oil and let it piece of work for xv minutes. One time the fill plug is removed, place a drain pan nether the differential and remove the drain plug. It is located in the lesser of the housing, protected by a steel ring effectually the head. Use the same socket used on the fill plug.

Filling:

Remove the sometime sealing band gaskets from the two plugs. Clean any metal particles off the magnet on the drain plug. There should only be a niggling finely ground metal grit (paste); no fries or chunks (i.e. broken gear teeth). Being able to see and evaluate the droppings on the magnet first hand is one reward of changing the fluid yourself. Clean both plugs with solvent and a wire brush so they await like new. If the corners are rounded, clothes them lightly with a file. Install new sealing ring gaskets. These are hollow aluminum, shell type gaskets. Don't reuse the onetime ones! Coat the plug threads with anti-seize. Clean the sealing surface around the drain plug pigsty with a rag. Install the drain plug and torque to 35 foot-pounds. Make full the housing with new gear oil. In that location is plenty room betwixt the dorsum of the differential housing and the spare tire to insert the nozzle of a one quart lube bottle into the fill pigsty and concord the bottle close to level. Squeeze the bottle to fill the housing. Fill until lube barely runs out the fill hole. Clean the sealing surface effectually the make full plug hole with a rag. Install the fill up plug and torque to 35 pes-pounds. Properly dispose of the old gear oil.

Materials:

2 drain plug gaskets, Toyota part no. 12157-10010 @ $.95 each from local dealer or $.69 from online discount dealer. Description: hollow aluminum crush type gasket with 18.2mm ID x 24.1mm OD x 2mm thick (prior to crushing).

3.five quarts of SAE 80W-xc hypoid gear oil for express slip differentials that meets or exceeds American Petroleum Plant (API) standard GL-five (chose your own poisonous substance, east.g. petroleum based, synthetic, Redline, Amsoil, Castrol, Mobil, etc.).

Anti-seize compound

Tools:

Noise with 15/16" six-point socket is recommended. fifteen/sixteen" twelve-signal or 24mm vi or twelve-point should work. 15/16" six-point PTI-bulldoze socket (relieved corners) is the safest bet considering it grips the six sides, non the six corners.

Torque wrench

>1-gallon drain pan

Wire brush

Rags or paper towels

Disposable latex gloves (recommended)

Notes:

1. Verify plugs are 24mm hex head; could be 10mm Allen head (requires Allen socket to utilize torque wrench) or other size
two. Drain plug gaskets fit 24mm hex head and 10mm Allen caput plugs
3. A Torx T-55 chip fits a 10mm Allen
iv. Fill up and drain plug threads are M18 x 1.5mm pitch.
5. Drain plug has magnet, fill plug does non

e9999

anybody who'southward done this already can get over this how-to to verify all is correct and complete?
if and so, will put in FAQ

Cruiser4UGA

Looks good to me, the only item I saw was the make full plug also has crush washers that do not have to exist replaced, but for a dollar I think information technology is well worth information technology. The transmission as well calls for SAE xc in warmer climates and eighty-ninety in cooler. Not a big deal I run fourscore-ninety in Georgia. Everything is good from what I see.

BeatenPath

Great write upward. If I can share two corrections from the Toyota Service Manual:

one. From the "Filling" section

Glaze the plug threads with anti-seize.

The service manual for the 100 LC/470 does not specify to add lubricant or anti-seize to the treads of the fill and/or drain plug. I would not recommend this step equally vibration could loosen the plug(south) with catastrophic results.

2. Also from the "Filling" section

Install the drain plug and torque to 35 human foot-pounds.

Install the fill plug and torque to 35 pes-pounds.

The service transmission specifies only 27 ft-lb of torque for both the fill and drain plugs in the rear differential. Again, this is a "dry out" tread specification (no tread lubricants).

jp213a

The FSM doesn't specify anti-seize on the plug threads but information technology does accept anti-corrosive, rust resistant, and adhesive propoerties. Come across following spider web site: http://www.valco-cp.com/Anti-Seize.htm A thread lubricant/sealer like Teflon paste is different than anti-seize. Basically, anti-seize allows the plugs to be removed at the side by side gear oil alter with about the same torque it was installed with because there is no corrision.

The 2002 version of FSM specifies a fill & drain plug torque of 35 ft-lbs (acutual 36) for the rear differential. A torque of 27 ft-lbs is specified for the transfer case plugs.

BeatenPath

Double checked, and your right on for the torque spec's for the rear diff. :doh:

For the anti-seize on the fill and drain plug treads, information technology'southward actually a mute point for this application. I tend to follow the FSM recommendations and take success in skipping this stride.

KathmanduCruiser

I did the rear differential oil change today. Used Mobil1 constructed (75W-xc). Man, does gear oil stink or what......

I used a transmission pump and a 10 foot tube to get the oil in. I had attempted to exercise this a few months dorsum, but could non get the darn drain plug to open. I applied as much forcefulness every bit I could, but it just would not open. Today, I went and got a metal pipe about a foot and a one-half long and used that equally a 'billow bar'. It opened without any problems.

I followed the directions on the thread. Cheers, jp213a, for posting this and for anybody who added useful information. Easy job, probably took 45 minutes. Adjacent fourth dimension, it won't even take that long.

There was a layer of thick grease in the magnetic office of the drain plug and metal shavings, but nothing large - peradventure a two or iii milimeter layer.

SWUtah

Here is the other process. Drive to Lexus dealership at appointed time. Give keys to service rep. Go into lounge and enjoy the food and drinks, watch some TV or read the newspaper. Nigh an hour later on your LX has been serviced and it has but been besides cleaned and you pay your $$ and drive off. I think that covers it

9toys

Are the rear differentials on LC's limited slip? My '04 Tundra'southward rear differential has a small metal tag hanging from one of the bolts that ID'due south it every bit a LSD, only my '99 LC does not.

hoser

Rear differential on your LC is non Limited Slip. US Marketplace 98-99 LX's have limited slip simply no available locker. If somebody really wanted one, I have one in the garage I tin part with.

jditom

Slap-up write up!
Do not forget virtually the front unequal and the T case.
I did all three last dark. Same procedure as in a higher place with a few exceptions.
For T-case you driblet the skid plate (3 bolts) Use 1.iii Quarts of 75-90W.
Forepart diff, you accept to drib the plastic middle skid plate (8 bolts).
The 2 bolts in the front diff are allen type. I have some that plug into my socket wrench. Information technology as well takes less than 2 quarts same grade as rear.

While you are at information technology greese that driveshaft espically the front part that is under the skid plate. Most shops are to lazy to accept off the skid and greese the front DS Mine looked dry and never been greesed!
Took nearly two.v hours along with the engine oil change. Nice thing to do after the kids are in bed.

KathmanduCruiser

Did that one today. A few months ago, when I tried doing the TC and the diff oil changes, I was able to do only the TC. Since then, thanks to the wonderful new idea of breaker bars

(I continue hearing that there is something revolutionary coming in the next few months chosen blinkers

), I accept been able to change both the diff oils.

The plastic skid plate is yet leaning to the wall. In that location is some rust in the underbody that I want to take care of earlier putting that dorsum in.

Great write up!
Practise not forget about the front unequal and the T case.
I did all 3 last night. Aforementioned procedure equally above with a few exceptions.
For T-case yous drop the skid plate (iii bolts) Use i.3 Quarts of 75-90W.
Forepart unequal, y'all take to drib the plastic middle skid plate (8 bolts).
The 2 bolts in the front unequal are allen type. I have some that plug into my socket wrench. Information technology besides takes less than 2 quarts aforementioned grade as rear.
While y'all are at it greese that driveshaft espically the front part that is nether the skid plate. Nearly shops are to lazy to accept off the skid and greese the front end DS Mine looked dry and never been greesed!
Took nigh 2.5 hours forth with the engine oil change. Nice matter to do after the kids are in bed.

Jim_Chow

I don't use any anti-seize on the bolts. There's plenty of gear oil residuum on there to prevent it from fusing. I also just wipe off the magnet w/ a rag...wire brush is kind of overkill.

For the front diff, the 1 qt unequal oil bottles won't work...not enough clearance. You need a pump.

I as well use Mobil 1 Delvac 75w90 gear oil, 5 gal pail w/ lid pump.

Jim_Chow

The FSM doesn't specify anti-seize on the plug threads only it does accept anti-corrosive, rust resistant, and adhesive propoerties. See following web site: http://www.valco-cp.com/Anti-Seize.htm A thread lubricant/sealer similar Teflon paste is unlike than anti-seize. Basically, anti-seize allows the plugs to exist removed at the next gear oil change with almost the same torque it was installed with because there is no corrision.
The 2002 version of FSM specifies a make full & drain plug torque of 35 ft-lbs (acutual 36) for the rear differential. A torque of 27 ft-lbs is specified for the transfer case plugs.

Ditto for the '03 Sixty...36 ft-lbs for both drain & fill plugs for the front & rear diffs, 27 ft-lbs for the t-example drain & fill up plugs. Front diff uses a 10mm hex commodities for the drain & fill, everything else is 24mm hex. Use vi pt sockets only on the hex bolts.

petrotk40

Man, I can not get the fill plug off. There seems to be some red liquid that solidified and the plug is stuck in there... Any ideas?

JZinNM

Mine wouldn't come off either when I changed the fluid at 105k miles. I had to take it to a mechanic who used an bear on wrench. If you can get a good solid "grip" on it, effort to use a breaker bar. Otherwise the socket volition slip and the head volition get rounded. Ask me how I know...

petrotk40

Mine wouldn't come off either when I changed the fluid at 105k miles. I had to take it to a mechanic who used an impact wrench. If you can get a good solid "grip" on information technology, endeavor to apply a billow bar. Otherwise the socket will slip and the head will get rounded. Ask me how I know...

Ya, I'm afraid I rounded mine off as well...

How To Install Rear Differential

Rear Differential Fluid Change (1 Viewer)

e9999

Gotta get outta here...

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